Lake Toba - North Sumatra

Lake Toba, the largest lake in South East Asia, and the deepest in the world, was formed 75,000 years ago after an earth splitting volcano eruption. It is the largest and deepest volcanic crater lake in the world. It's 906 meters above sea level with an average depth of 450m. The lake has an island in the middle called Samosir. You can get to Lake Toba from Medan in around 3 - 4 hours.

Lake Toba is in the centre of the homeland to the Batak people but 'Tano Batak' covers an area the size of Belgium within North Sumatra. With their own language, the Batak are mainly Christian, encountering Christian missionaries in the 1850's and 1860's from Holland and Germany.

 

The current estimated population of Samosir is 120,000. Including Lake Toba there are six major Batak regions - Toba Batak, Karo Batak, Kakpak/Dairi Batak, Simeulungun Batak, Angkola Batak and Sipirko Batak. Around 1.5 Million Batak live amongst these regions. The Karo Batak and centered around Berastagi.
There is a regular ferry service, every half hour, between Tuk-Tuk on Samosir Island to Parapat. The ferry runs between 7.30am and 7.30pm during peak tourist seasons. During off peak times the last ferry back from Parapat is 6pm. The cost of the ferry is 7000Rp. Buy your ticket on the boat. At the ferry wharf and on the ferry you will be approached by many of the local young men trying to persuade you to go to the hotel they are affiliated with. These guys are mostly harmless and just trying to make a living guiding tourists. They can be a good resource for information. There is no harm in going and checking their hotel out and if you're not happy with that hotel move on to the ones close by. Tuk-tuk is not that large so the hotels are close. See the list of hotels at the bottom of this page.

View across to Tuk-Tuk Peninsula

On the island there are waterfalls and hot volcanic springs (Air Panas). In the dry season most of the waterfalls stop flowing.
Three megalithic sites on Samosir bear witness to the glory - and horror - of Batak history. The three consist of 300-year-old stone seats and benches arrayed in a circle. The first set of ruins was used as a conference area for Batak kings. At the second site, the rajas would sit in judgment of a criminal or enemy prisoner. If the accused were found guilty, the assembly would move to the third set, which features the ghastly addition of a central stone execution block.

    

The Air Panas - hot springs is on the other side of the island to Tuk-Tuk. The hot springs are not on Samosir Island but you do not need to take a ferry off the island to see them. On the opposite side of the island from where Tuk-Tuk is there is a town called Pangururan. There you will find a small isthmus that connects the island to the mainland. So is Samosir actually a true island? On the other side of this isthmus you will find the hot springs. It takes about 1 hour to ride the local bus to Pangururan from Tuk Tuk. If you hire a motorbike to travel around Samoris Island ride carefully as often dogs, chickens and school children dart across the roads as well as water buffalo on the side and often on the road.
Overlooking the hot springs is Mount Pusuk Buhit (1981m). Gunung Pusuk Buhit is sacred to the Batak people as the first ruler, Si Raja Batak, is believed to have descended from heavan onto the mountain.
At Simanindo, 19km from Tuk-Tuk, is the Batak Museum built in the house where Raja Sidauruk lived. Here you can see traditional dancing (Tordon) and puppet performances (Sigalegale). Sigalegale was originally performed at Batak funerals, the puppets being the receptacle for the soul of the deceased.
All over Samosir Island you will see lots of traditional Batak houses as well as the Batak grave sites which are suspended above the ground.

The Batak houses have lots of symbolism built into their design.

The roofs of the house are designed so the back of the roof in higher than the front. The father of the house always sleeps at the front of the house and the children in the back. The higher roof in the back signifies that the father wants his children to reach higher in life than himself.

The steps leading up to the small entrance are always atleast 4, 5 or 6 to signify how many children the family wants to have.

The small entrance into a Batak house are designed so you have to bow down to enter the house paying respect to the people inside the house.

In July every year the Batak people hold the Lake Toba festival. The festivities include Dragon boat races, traditional dancing, canoe races and a swim from Parapat to Tuk-Tuk. This festival was suspended in 2007 due to the economical climate and lack of tourists.

In the middle of Samosir Island there is a small mountain (780m) which is quite an easy climb to get to the top. On the journey up you will experience fantastic views over the lake and Tuk-Tuk. There are two guesthouses at the top of the mountain, John and Jenny's which makes for an interesting night away.

Internet access on Samosir Island is fairly slow and sometimes unreliable. There are often power cuts especially at night. The cost is fairly standard at all internet cafes and hotels set at 20,000Rp per hour, usually charged by the minute.

Getting to Lake Toba

You can catch a bus to Lake Toba from most to the main towns in Sumatra. You can catch a train from Medan to P. Siantar which is only 40 minutes from Lake Toba by bus. The train leaves Medan at 10.05am and arrives in P. Siantar at around 12.45pm.

A public bus to and from Medan to Parapat costs 18,000Rp and takes around 3 - 4 hours.

There are also daily flights on Susi Air that fly from Medan to Silangit (12.40pm) and flights from Silangit to Medan (1.20pm). Silangit is just south of Lake Toba with buses available to transport you to Parapat after your flight. The flight times are 40 minutes.